This route offers an exceptional chance to plunge into the unique atmosphere of the 47-kilometre stretch from León to Astorga. Part of the so-called French Trail, it is very popular among pilgrims who come from all over the world with its succession of small Romanesque chapels, Gothic cathedrals, green plains and refreshing streams. And a surprise: Gaudí left two fascinating examples of his brilliance in this historic province.
The streets, squares and taverns crowded with pilgrims clearly show that León is a key point on the Jacobean route. Though it was founded by the Romans - parts of the town walls remain from this period - it was in the Middle Ages that the town saw its greatest growth and prosperity, above all thanks to the flow of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. An impressive heritage remains from this era of splendour, starting with the symbol of León, the Cathedral of Santa María, a majestic church built in the 13th century and skilfully reconstructed in the 20th. Its architectural attractiveness is highlighted by its magnificent, colourful stained glass windows, especially the rose window in the west façade. Fortunately, the narrow streets of the charming old quarter, formerly occupied by the different trades whose names they still bear, have not lost their essence and it is a pleasure to stroll unhurriedly through them.
Another site which must be visited is the Basilica of San Isidoro, Romanesque though with Gothic additions, the remains of an older church and Islamic details. Highlights include the royal tomb, a little older than the Romanesque church and adjoining it, with its capitals, wall paintings and vaulted ceilings with Biblical scenes. Some 40 kings and members of the nobility rest in this solemn building.
Traditional eateries located right in the old town centre include La Gitana (Carnicerías, 5. Tel. 987 25 60 35), Casa Benito (plaza Mayor, 20. Tel. 987 25 50 30) and El Besugo (Azabachería, 10. Tel. 987 25 69 95). Over many years these have built up a well-earned reputation as standard-bearers for the finest Leonese cooking. In the past they were taverns with long tables and benches, bustling with country people who came to the market in the Plaza Mayor to sell their produce. Today they are establishments frequented by both locals and visitors wanting to try their tasty specialities: roast suckling lamb, maragato stew, trout, game dishes or cured meats and vegetables from the region, washed down with a good local wine, such as for example a Bierzo or a Tierras de León.
Antoni Gaudí designed the highly original Casa de Botines, commissioned by two rich textile merchants who relied on the recommendation of the Barcelona industrialist Eusebi Güell, the patron of the brilliant Catalan architect. This is a magnificent building constructed in limestone on a trapezoidal floor plan flanked by four towers topped by pinnacles, right in the centre of the city of León. While Gaudí supervised the building himself, he left the day-to-day running of the work to his assistant Claudi Alsina.
Go down to the river to discover the old monastery of San Marcos, a leading example of Spanish Renaissance architecture. This remarkable work in the Plateresque style of the 16th century was the headquarters of the Order of Santiago, a former pilgrim’s hostel, the jail in which Francisco de Quevedo was imprisoned, a barracks and, today, a luxury hotel. The perfect excuse to spend the night in a historic building.
On the way back one could visit the new part of town, with up to the minute buildings like the Ciudad de León auditorium or MUSAC, the regional contemporary art gallery.
There is no better way to round off such a busy day than relaxing over a few glasses of wine in the old part of town known as the Barrio Húmedo. In this district, as in other place in León, a small free snack will often accompany whatever drinks you order. This makes it possible to try Leonese black pudding, dried meat, beans, tripe, gizzards, cured meats and cheeses, among other things, without spending very much at all.
Get up early to leave León via the bridge over the river Bernesga to visit the Virgen del Camino monastery, home to the well-known sanctuary of the patron saint of León. The building is decorated with bronze statues of the apostles presided over by the Virgin Mary, by the sculptor Josep Maria Subirachs, the creator of a façade on the church of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.
In the locality of Hospital de Órbigo it is worth stopping for a break among the trees beside its famous mediaeval bridge, whose history is linked by legend to that of Don Suero de Quiñones, a knight who, hurt by the indifference of the woman he loved and with the support of nine of his men, fought all those who dared to cross it. If you stay until lunchtime, it is a good idea to visit the charming restaurant La Encomienda (Álvarez Vega, 30. Tel. 987 38 82 11) and test for yourself the excellent reputation of its trout.
If travelling by car, by early afternoon you can get to Astorga, an ancient strategic point on the Via de la Plata, the Roman road leading to Mérida, and later one of the towns with the most hostels on the pilgrims’ route. The principal places of interest in the town are clustered in the centre: the cathedral, built between the 15th and 18th centuries and featuring different architectural styles, and the fine episcopal palace created at the end of the 19th century by the leading exponent of Art Nouveau architecture, Antoni Gaudí. Today it is home to the Museo de los Caminos, devoted to the history of Astorga and the pilgrimages.
In the beautiful Plaza del Ayuntamiento, if one looks carefully at the tower of the town hall which gives the square its name, two figures can be seen; they are the Maragatos, Zancudo and Colasa, symbolising an ethnic group of unknown origin who maintained their own customs apart from the rest of society from the 8th century up to the 20th. In the past they were often muleteers, though today they have moved with the times and only show off their traditional costumes on special occasions. One cannot leave the town without taking the chance to try the famous mantecadas, exquisite sweet pastries from Astorga which will leave the sweet aftertaste of a magical land in both the mouth and the mind.
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